Durban, South Africa

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We were already docked when we woke up this morning! We were scheduled to arrive at 7 am, but we woke about 5:50 am and we were tied up at dock in Durban. I was awake about 4am and could see lights through a crack in the curtains. I assume there is either a lot of human habitation lighting up the coast or it was already the outskirts of Durban. Of course, it may have been Durban as we have no idea how early we actually arrived.

We'd been to Durban in late 2001. After 9/11. It was the one and only time and place in the world we'd suffered anti-American action or words. It was scary. I didn't want to return, so we booked an excursion just to get out of the city. Mission accomplished. Crystal ran a complimentary shuttle between the N-Shed Passenger Terminal of Durban Harbor and the Ushaka Marine World Complex. I don't know what else was there or how well it went but we arrived back around 4 pm to witness a busload of crew unloading. Many had shopping bags. I didn't need to shop or visit an aquarium. We had a good day and we're satisfied. It was much cooler today and rained off and on so it stayed overcast. The AC may have been as unsuccessful as yesterday's but today it didn't matter.

Pasted below is our tour description. We paid $209 each for it.

EXCURSION

HOWICK FALLS & ARDMORE CERAMICS

Visit to Howick Falls and a guided visit through Ardmore Ceramic Art Studio.

DURATION

APPROXIMATELY 8½ HOURS

The natural beauty of South Africa’s interior and the creative originality of its resident artisans await your discovery on this diverse excursion from Durban.

At the pier in Durban, you will board an air-conditioned motor coach for the scenic 60-mile drive through the picturesque landscape of Pietermaritzburg, the city of flowers. This genteel countryside is rich with Victorian and Edwardian influences, and is the gateway to the heart of the Natal Midlands, home of the magnificent Howick Falls.

Known to the Zulu as KwaNogqaza, or Place of the Tall One, the Howick Falls were first seen by European adventurers in the early 19th century, as wagon trains and transport riders pioneered routes inland from the coast. Descending some 300 feet, these falls are accessible to everyone and offer a stunning view from the top.

After your visit at the falls, you will continue to a local restaurant for lunch.

The renowned Ardmore Ceramic Art Studio welcomes you after lunch. In 1985, Fee Halsted-Berning was living on the Ardmore farm, in the shadow of the Drakensberg Mountains. During her five years at the University of Natal, she honed her passion for ceramic art while she studied fine art and earned an advanced diploma in ceramics.

After graduation, Fee began teaching her craft, encouraging her students’ imagination based on nature, Zulu folklore and tradition. Her first student was Bonnie Ntshalintshali, the daughter of a farm employee. Bonnie’s natural talent emerged under Fee’s tutelage, and word of Fee’s classes spread far and wide. Fee’s reputation as the “creator of artists” grew as Bonnie became known as one of South Africa’s leading ceramic artists. Awards and critical acclaim accumulate to this day, but Fee remains steadfast in her mission: “The Zulu people have a wonderful sense of color and rhythm, and a gift for design and balance. All they need is opportunity.”

At the end of this unique, fulfilling adventure, you will have time to shop at the studio for the lovely, nature-inspired works of art at Ardmore. Before you know it, it will be time to drive through the dramatic KwaZulu Natal countryside to rejoin your beautiful Crystal ship.

Important Notes: This excursion is not wheelchair accessible. It is recommended that guests wear flat, comfortable shoes.

Availbility: Limited

We were 11 tour participants in a full size coach like yesterday's which had 31 then. So there was that! I was lucky and moved into the seat behind the driver as we started out. That meant I saw guinea fowl, antelope and zebras from the bus. Lucky. The tour was pretty much described as above except it was mostly on a toll highway and though scenic, we saw little architecture or towns. We did drive through Howick off the toll road to get to the falls viewpoint. As I heard our guide tell our Crystal escort, everything on this tour is free of charge except lunch. So, when we reached the end of the road, that was the falls viewpoint and we parked right there and walked across the street. The guide didn't tell us when to be back so what I think was meant to be a 5-15 minute photo stop turned into a half hour or more as people visited the parking lot shopping stalls and as the guide had pointed out a block or so of unique gift shop type places some took it upon themselves to walk back there and shop as well. It worked out fine as otherwise we'd have had lunch before 11 am. Lunch was special even though fixed. It was at Granny Mouse Country House which was entirely unexpected and wonderfully charming. The visit to Ardmore was last and a bit of a disappointment. We'd been promised a guided tour but the guy who greeted us said we'd do that if we had time after shopping. We have the founder of Ardmore onboard with a smaller selection of product for sale so we were advised to not wait to buy onboard and also because she'll leave the ship in Namibia and if you are having your purchases shipped home there would be extra charges. So a van load of teenagers that arrived after us got the guided tour because they couldn't afford the prices. We did wander into the workshop ourselves when we realized there would be no guided tour for us. It was pretty amazing without commentary anyway. So we saw some beautiful landscapes, some animals and had a nice lunch and got out of Durban. Since I was sitting in front, I overheard a conversation between the driver and guide and the guide said he would never come into Durban without being paid to do it. Interestingly we drove by the Nelson Mandela Capture Site twice without stopping for even photos though the guide did point it out and talk about it. Interesting that it was there in our path of free things to visit and we didn't spare it 5 or 15 minutes. It seems a natural to include it.

We will go to Waterside tonight. It is casual tonight. We sail at 9 pm. Tomorrow is a sea day which will be welcome.

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