Little Bob hits the road

Little Bob hits the road
Little Bob hits the road

Saturday, June 8, 2013

May 5 Corpach to Fort Augustus


Photos

Today dawned gray, windy and cold. Our window was all fogged up and we couldn’t even see out. But, it wasn’t raining and that was the good news. Clay got up around 6am and went for a walk. Breakfast was 7:30am-9am. Sailaway from Corpach was 9am. Clay had Loch Fyne kippers and eggs with hash browns and toast. I had a ham and cheese omelet with toast and jam.

We were getting up from the table to go out for a quick walk around the Corpach Sea Lock when Brian came on the intercom and announced we were leaving at 8:30am instead. That didn’t seem right because a lot of people were marked off the boat on the board and they wouldn’t know we were leaving early now. We stayed onboard because of the announcement of early departure and then we didn’t sail until after 9am anyway. I assume it was because we had to wait for everyone to get back onboard at the originally scheduled time. That was annoying.  I mean WTH?

So, we are in the Caledonian Canal. We entered last night through 1 lock and docked just inside. This morning we passed through a pair of locks and sailed a very short distance to Neptune’s Staircase. This is a series of 8 locks in a row, like a row of stair steps. It is beneath Ben Nevis, the highest mountain in Britain. This canal was engineered by Thomas Telford. It was built between 1803 and 1822. It’s built in a geological fault called the Great Glen. There are 4 lochs linked by the canal. They are Loch Lochy, Oich, Ness and Dochfour. I don’t know why they don’t count Loch Linnhe which is where we entered.

When we reached the top of Neptune’s Staircase, on the right was a dock with a team with a robotic submersible camera. We tied up there and they examined the back starboard corner of Lord of the Glens. Not sure what that was about, but it allowed us about 45 minutes ashore to walk back down to the bottom of Neptune’s Staircase and back up again. It took 2 hours for the boat to climb up, but we could walk round trip in a half hour! It started raining again as we walked and it is now gray and socked in with clouds again. Brian announced and led the walk and told us quite a bit. We walked past the house Thomas Telford lived in during the construction. He told us the Caledonian Canal is a gravity fed system with no shortage of water supply from the rain into the lochs. I asked what it costs to use the locks and canals and I think I remember him saying that Magna Carta pays about £4000 per year for Lord of the Glens' usage. That seems reasonable for all the times they are back and forth every 4 to 7 days or so in spring through fall. You can walk the Great Glen Way between Fort William and Inverness for 79 miles. You can bike it. You can canoe or kayak it, but paddlers aren’t allowed in the locks. They have to portage. Brian really does work hard and seems on all the time. When he isn’t with us, he is on the phone. We sailed a serpentine man-made canal all morning.

At 12:30pm it was lunch time. Clay had chicken Caesar salad. I had tatties and mince. (Translation: potatoes and ground beef. Don’t ask!) The other option was blue cheese omelet. Gross. But those at our table who had it said they couldn't taste any blue cheese. Soup was mushroom. Pudding was sticky toffee pudding. Dinner tonight is a choice of venison, scallops or goat cheese and onion chutney tartlet. Clay chose venison since it was the most popular and I chose the tartlet. We’ll see.

Shortly after lunch we passed the Moy Swing Bridge which is manually operated and is the only original 140 year old bridge on the canal. We entered Gairlochy Lock into Loch Lochy next. Our handout for the day says Loch Lochy is considered the most impressive of the 4 lochs because of the steep forested sides that rise up from the water, but the whole thing is covered with a cloud and you can barely see the shore much less the shore sides. Well, the morning was glorious while it lasted. Hopefully, we’ll build up a few hours every day until we get nice weather again.  (I’ll just go ahead and kill the suspense, it didn’t happen.)
This afternoon we should enter Loch Oich, the highest point of the waterway at 106 feet above sea level. We should arrive at Fort Augustus at 5:30pm. Dinner is at 7:30pm so we’ll have 2 hours to explore. There is supposed to be much of interest, but we’ll have to see how the weather is when we get there. Evidently, the actual fort was begun in 1729, and then it was a monastery from 1876 to 1998 and is now being turned into flats. So, I guess we won’t visit the fort anyway.


So, in the cold, cloudy, misty, windy  and pouring rain we have passed Laggan Locks and swing bridge. Laggan Avenue is a narrow 1.5 mile long tree-lined section of canal. We passed the River Oich pedestrian suspension bridge. Now the walking trail is only on our port side. Most of what we had noticed to this point was walking/biking trails on both sides. We started going back down to sea level at Cullochy Loch, I think. I can’t find it written in any of our daily papers or fact sheets and there was no announcement when we started down. There may have been another lock in there that I’ve missed the name of, but Cullochy Loch is the first one that I am sure was going down instead of up.

It is 5:25pm and we are nearing the entrance of Kytra Lock. The day’s program mentions the option of getting off here and walking down to Fort Augustus weather permitting. I guess weather doesn’t permit and there have been no announcements or stops to let people go ashore.

It is taking longer to go down the locks than it did to go up. Someone observed the up locks had 2 workers each and these only have 1 worker so it takes longer to get tied up in there before they start changing the water level. From the map it appears that there are at least 4 more locks before Fort Augustus, so since it is 5:30pm now, we will not be tied up at 5:30pm. This means we are completely missing our 2 hour free time window here before dinner. Oh, well with the heavy rain it is unlikely many of us would have gone out to sightsee anyway.

It is oppressively hot inside this ship. Our cabin has been too hot since we arrived and we are thankful that Victor, our steward brought us an oscillating desk fan that we have pretty much kept on nonstop just to move the hot air around. Out in our hallway, it is freezing with cold air blowing out of the ceiling vents. Upstairs in the observation lounge, it is incredibly hot. All the chairs are filled with (Dare it say it without seeming mean? Since I am one, I’ll say it, OLD) people slumped over trying to keep awake. It is actually a little depressing. Clay and I keep going back and forth, up and down. Usually we have a clearer view out of our port side window because it is sloped down and not covered in rain. The forward facing windows upstairs are sloped up and are just sheeted in rain, plus fogged up from the inside. The bad thing is not being able to see forward. They need a bridge cam channel on the TV! We saw 4 swans this afternoon.
We tied up after 6pm at the top of the series of Fort Augustus locks in the pouring rain. The few hardy souls who walked into the village said nothing had been missed. Dinner was OK. I ate an oaty roll with butter to make sure I’d have something to eat. They are adamant onboard that the bread plate and butter knife are bussed off the table before the main course, so if you want bread you have to get it and get it eaten in about 5 minutes! Dessert was weird. It was some kind of chocolate crunchy wet pie in a graham cracker crust with a graham cracker ball on the side with a smear of strawberry sauce and a mint chocolate garnish. The ball was vanilla ice cream inside. I t was just weird and the flavors didn’t really go together. A man at our table asked the waitress what it was and she said the menu said strawberry shortcake but tomorrow we were supposed to have chocolate cheesecake and the dessert chef  had gotten mixed up and started one instead of the other and we got a hybrid. The man named it Jerry’s Surprise after the chef and asked to meet him. It was funny and the Filipino chef was good humored about it. The waitress said she didn’t know what we’d have for dessert tomorrow. More later.


It is very suspicious that I have not found any of the pictures Clay took of meals. I suspect at some point I should find the pictures I’ve been missing. Meaning they are not in the date order of the other files he gave me. Well, I promise when I find them that I will come back in and add them to the appropriate day’s post. Sorry about that!

Photos