Little Bob hits the road

Little Bob hits the road
Little Bob hits the road

Wednesday, May 23, 2018

Old Albemarle Boat Tour Day 2, Part 2


1767 Chowan County Courthouse
Our original itinerary had us checking into the Hampton Inn at 3:30pm and free time until reboarding the bus at 4:45pm for the drive into Edenton and a 5pm social at the 1767 Chowan County Courthouse. Since we left the Newbold-White House at 4pm, we drove directly to Edenton's courthouse for the social. They were ready for us with drinks, snacks and speakers.


Clay in 1767 courthouse chief judge's seat
Debbie & the teapot on a Revolutionary War cannon
After the social, we were free to find dinner on our own walking Edenton's Broad Street. We were encouraged to head out and shop first, but we only found 2 stores open and we didn't need anything. Since we had a very late lunch followed by hors d'oeuvres here we weren't ready for dinner yet. We walked down the green before the courthouse down to the water first. We watched the Belle of Washington arrive. Somehow, we didn't remember seeing "the teapot" from our previous visit here. Even knowing where to look for it this time we walked by without spotting it on the way down and had to walk back up.


Belle of Washington sailing into Edenton, NC

Bob with Clay's beer
We ended up eating at 309 Bistro. The first place we looked at eating had a line waiting. We walked further up the street and found a similar menu at 309 Bistro and went in. She had 3 2-top tables left! We took one in the back out of the sun. We considered this our 33rd Anniversary dinner since we didn't really have dinner on the 10th. It was very good and reasonably priced. We first thought we'd ordered too many fries, but they were very crispy double-fried fries and we loved them. We were both happy not to have to share!
Clay's fried flounder

My steak and fries

Cupola House
The first bus shuttling back to the Hampton Inn was at 8pm so we had some time to kill. We walked down to the waterfront. Along the way, we admired the Cupola House. We saw the River Lighthouse, where we'll get lunch tomorrow. I think almost everyone took the 8pm bus back as it was standing room. I don't know whether they had to run the 9pm shuttle or not. I can tell you that we were probably asleep at 9pm given the long day!
Edenton's 1886 River Lighthouse


Tomorrow we can sleep in a bit. We'll have the Hampton Inn's lobby breakfast and catch the 9am shuttle into Edenton for our 9:30am private home tour of Beverly Hall with Sambo Dixon.

Tuesday, May 22, 2018

Wreck update


Our now totaled car. Doesn't look that bad...
I am interrupting this increasingly long overdue Albemarle trip report with an update on the status of our May 14 car wreck outside Williamston. State Farm called today to tell us they had declared our 2011 Hyundai Elantra a total loss. The caller stated they would overnight a check and release papers to us. The check would exceed what we believed the car's book value would have been. We really hope this is the final chapter of the story of the wreck. If it is all over, then we are satisfied. Fingers crossed it is the end and we don't hear anymore about. I think Clay is fine. I am still badly bruised and sore but I believe time will heal me. Clay is very happy with the Kia Niro PHEV as a main car replacement. He loves all the high tech features and the fact that he can go to and from work on a 6-hour charge. His math tells him that commute is costing him 66¢ a day. At the rate he's going the tank of gas that came in the car new will last until we drive to Florida later this year. We are waiting to make a decision about whether we will stay a one car household, or buy a second car. I guess that means we've decided to remain a one car household until we need a second car. Not deciding is deciding and all that.


The Toyota that hit us is surely totaled.

Old Albemarle Boat Tour Day 2

Friday, May 11, 2018

We arrived just in time for sunrise over Pasquotank River
We woke with Clay's alarm at 5am this morning. Our schedule today was to all drive our cars from the Fairfield Inn to Charles Creek Park across the street from Waterfront Park at 6am. At 6:30am the bus was to meet us there and we'd load our luggage. The bus would take those who didn't want to walk to Waterfront Park to board the Belle of Washington at 6:45am and we'd depart at 7am. The bus was waiting for us at the Hampton Inn for reasons that remain unclear. Clay left me with the suitcase and the crowd and crossed the street alone to photograph the sunrise and check out our boat. The boat's departure was only delayed by minutes in the end.


Belle of Washington
Today was our longest sailing stretch from Elizabeth City downstream on the Pasquotank River to sail south down Albemarle Sound for several hours. We averaged about 6.5 knots per hour which was a little under the vessel's max speed. It was smooth sailing except for a short section as we entered the sound and turned south. That was where we encountered some excitement and we were told we veered very wide into the sound and added hours to the trip. We had to give Harvey Point wide clearance but we still felt shock waves rock the boat. We could see black smoke, helicopters and hear explosions. If you zoom in on this map at the point of land before the 2, you will see it. Otherwise, it was a surprisingly unscenic sail. We did see our only dolphins of this trip during the Albemarle Sound sailing today. So, that was special.

Clay sailing Pasquotank River
I should say that max capacity for our boat was 66 people and we were at capacity. That meant once you found a spot, it was yours. There was not room for everyone either inside or outside. We choose to be outside, upstairs under that awning you see at the aft of the boat. It was a reasonable choice given the nice weather. It was less crowded than downstairs up front where the food and drinks were served. The only downside was that we couldn't hear the speakers who were downstairs in that lounge area. They used a boatwide PA but unless you were standing directly in front of one of the 4 speakers upstairs you couldn't hear. Dr. Kevin Cherry was the lead NC employee from NCDCR who accompanied us on the trip and spoke in that capacity as well as a resident of the region. The others were Bland Simpson, David Cecelski and Tom Earnhardt. Tom Earnhardt brought along a videographer to shoot scenes for his UNC-TV show. The videographer brought still and video cameras as well as a drone. Clay only brought his phone and had some serious envy. But he also did not have the group waiting for him to constantly move his equipment from place to place!
Drone buzzing Belle of Washington


Our breakfast at our metal seating area
Since we were out of the Fairfield Inn before breakfast was served today, we had a cold breakfast onboard Belle of Washington after setting sail. It turns out that a neighbor of ours works for the NC Dept. of Cultural Resources and was working this trip. When we talked to her at the reception last night about breakfast, she told us meals were her responsibility. We asked her if she was getting Bojangles' biscuits for early mornings on the boat and she was sad to say no. Pastries and fruit and fig or cereal bars and coffee. We were disappointed and made a pitch for Bojangles. She took it under advisement.

Leaving Elizabeth City, NC

Blimp Hangar!

Our videographer setting up

Crab pot collection

Golf cart brigade awaits at Albemarle Plantation Marina
So, we had a scheduled 5 hour sail this morning. We should have gone ashore at noon at Albemarle Plantation Marina. We arrived there around 1:30pm. The good news was that a brigade of volunteer residents waiting on the dock in the blazing midday sun for us. They graciously whisked us all directly to our waiting bus and thence to our waiting lunch. I haven't mentioned the weather, it was HOT. It was late July/August hot, over 90°F. That was much hotter than predicted even the night before we left home. We spent days trying to stay out of the sun, otherwise it was beautiful weather.

Rear or streetside view of Newbold-White House
Our cold plate lunch


By 1:45pm, the bus was headed towards Hertford. Our next stop was for lunch and a tour at the historic Newbold-White House. It is the oldest known brick house in NC. They had set up a cold plate lunch for us in their visitor's center, so it didn't matter that we arrived at 2:15pm instead of 1pm. We learned about the prominent role of Quakers in the establishment of NC during our 3pm tour of the house and grounds, as well as their replica periauger. We reboarded the bus at 4pm for the trip to Edenton, our overnight stop.

Our subgroup at the rebuilt smokehouse
Front or river-side view of Newbold-White House

Their replica periauger

I'll also stop this blog post here and pick up in Edenton, NC in the next post. It was a long, full day!





Monday, May 21, 2018

Old Albemarle Boat Tour Day 1

Thursday, May 10, 2018

We started out about noon and it took about 2.5 hours to get to Elizabeth City.  Most of our route was Future I-87. So, it went quickly, the last hour was small roads from Williamston to Elizabeth City. Even though we were a bit earlier than our scheduled 3pm checkin time, the Fairfield Inn was ready and expecting us. We gave our name and she said Oh you're on the boat tour and quickly handed us our keys. Hotel checkin would go this quickly each time on this tour at different chain hotels. Well done!

Quality Seafood in Elizabeth City, NC

Clay's oyster sandwich
It was late for lunch, but we decided to go out for a quick late lunch. Clay had a few places he wanted to eat at, but timing did not work in his favor. He did get to go to Quality Seafood today. He had a fried oyster sandwich and I had a BBQ sandwich. Both were good and a good value! Clay's sandwich had 9 oysters and the last day of the trip he paid $20 for 9 fried oysters.

Debbie's BBQ sandwich.

The sandwiches were a bargain.
At 5:45pm we were scheduled to board the tour bus for a ride to the Museum of othe Albemarle for a reception and to see the 1663 Carolina Charter and associated historic documents. The museum was open for us to tour as well. Clay found a display about the Perry-Wynn Fish Company. His Aunt Sib married into the Perry family and Clay has cousins that were affiliated with the company before it disappeared. At 6:30pm, they served heavy hors d'oeuvres as our dinner. At 7:30pm our tour group met in the auditorium for a chat by our organizers, escorts and speakers. At 8:15pm, we loaded the bus back to the Fairfield Inn. We have a 6am start tomorrow!


1663 Carolina Charter, only leaves the State Archives under armed guard.





Historic Albemarle documents.


Last of 3 historic Albemarle documents.


Perry signage.


Perry artifacts.

Friday, May 18, 2018

Old Albemarle Boat Trip

We're home! Here is a spoiler alert since I haven't posted any blog entries yet, we had a great trip but were in a wreck driving home. We're fine but sore and bruised. The car won't be coming home for a while, if ever. We sold my car, our second car, last month to my brother Matt, so this left us with no cars! We've spent the past week dealing with wreckers, salvage yards for storage, body shops, insurance companies and car dealers. I'm sure it could have been much worse. It still might be. We picked up our new Kia Niro EX plug-in hybrid today. It will serve as our new main car. The fate of the Hyundai Elantra is yet to be determined. This is the 3rd time that car has been hit by someone or something else and we're feeling it is too unlucky to keep it. We'll see.

In the meantime, here is a map of our trip until I get to posting daily entries with photos.


Sunday, May 6, 2018

350th Anniversary of the Albemarle Region

I know I've posted a bit about this trip, but I don't think I've mentioned the reason the NC Transportation Museum and the NC Cultural Resources are collaborating to put it on and it is a rare showing of the 1663 Carolina Charter at the Museum of the Albemarle. (Which is way more than 350 years, so I can't explain that...huh.) That document ordinarily resides in Raleigh, but I don't think it is ordinarily on public display. Anyway, this is special and that is the reason for the trip. Now, you know.

Saturday, May 5, 2018

NC Transportation Museum's Old Albemarle River Boat Tour Recommended Reading List


If we get any of this reading done, it will be after this trip if we don't learn enough on the trip. I am posting the list here in case anyone else is interested in learning more about the Northeast coastal area of North Carolina.

Recommended Readings from Bland Simpson

Written by Bland:
  • The Great Dismal:  A Carolinian's Swamp Memoir     
  • Into the Sound Country:  A Carolinian's Coastal Plain  (with photography by Ann Cary Simpson)
  • The Inner Islands:  A Carolinian's Sound Country Chronicles  (with photography by Ann Cary Simpson)
  • The Coasts of Carolina (with photography by Scott Taylor)
  • Little Rivers & Waterway Tales (with photography by Ann Cary Simpson)

Online sources recommended by Bland:
  • "A Feast of Brick"
City Portrait:  Elizabeth City

  • "A Sound Country Serenade"

  • "James Adams Floating Theatre Provided a Big Show on the Sounds"

  • "Fresh Catch"
Honoring the Waters that Provide Our Bounty

  • "The History of the Scuppernong"
In Columbia, the river that gave its name to our grape is a lifeline

Recommended Readings from David Cecelski

Written by David:
  • A Historian’s Coast: Adventures into the Tidewater Past
  • The Waterman’s Song: Slavery and Freedom in Maritime North Carolina
  • The Fire of Freedom: Abraham Galloway and the Slaves’ Civil War

Online sources recommended by David:
  • On the history of the great Albemarle shad and herring fisheries—this entry is the introduction to a 10-part series on them that I am putting up this week, one day at a time.

  • "The Constant, Haunting Music of the Geese." This entry is about Lake Mattamuskeet and Rachel Carson. It's not exactly Albemarle-y, but I think it's close enough. It was originally published in the N.C. Lit. Rv. 

  • On Edna Ferber, the James Adams Floating Theatre & Native Americans around the Albemarle--


Information from Tom Earnhardt

As an additional note guest speaker Tom Earnhardt will be filming our trip to feature our experiences in an upcoming episode of his original TV series “Exploring North Carolina” on UNC-TV!  If you are unfamiliar with his show, you may want to review past episodes here:
https://www.unctv.org/watch/unctv-originals/exploring-nc/