Sailing the Gulf of St. Lawrence

Sunday, September 11, 2016

The seas have calmed considerably when I wake up. I look out and we are nearing the Newfoundland coast. Around 8am, we turned slightly right and entered the Gulf of Saint Lawrence. We can see land on both sides. Around 1pm, we saw what will probably be our last ice berg of the trip. Clay says our last iceberg ever! That’s a bit depressing. We went up to Lido for breakfast. We both went up to Palm Court after. We could see a lot of shipping traffic which has been absent for a long time. I did 9am gentle yoga. At 10am we both attended the Cineflex talk by our expedition operator, Ron Chapple. It was fascinating. All the camera equipment he has fitted on the ship is worth about $500, 000. He told us his company does all the aerial photography for the TV series Hawaii Five-O. After that I took my nearly completed needlepoint project to Miyako and at last she offered me another kit. Unfortunately, she did not, as promised, save me the tablet cover Clay had requested. She only had 3 choices left. I didn’t want to repeat the size I just finished. Choice 2 was a half-spectacles case, which I had not seen before, but which was a nice size. Choice 3 was what I had thought was the most coveted, the Crystal logo pillow top. I had wanted a larger project but I didn’t love this one, plus it wasn’t a complete kit like the others as it was just a canvas. You have to finish it to make it anything like a pillow or else maybe frame it. Miyako showed me that another guest had told her they were putting NWP 16 around the center of theirs. I liked that idea of making a souvenir of the cruise that could be framed or made into a pillow. She sold me. So, if finally got a new kit, but not the one I had been working towards. Oh well.

Today Serenity put on a Sunday Jazz Brunch. What made it a jazz brunch? There was live jazz playing in the Crystal Plaza where the buffet tables were set up. There wasn’t any Bananas Foster or anything necessarily food themed with the jazz motif. Clay went and took photos after they started serving at 11:30am. We waited until after noon and went to Lido. The captain made his noon announcement and said we’d be in the Gulf of Saint Lawrence until we exit at Cabot Strait early tomorrow morning. He says we’re about half way to Bar Harbor where he expects to easily reach on schedule.

We plan to lounge in the cabin until 4:30pm. We have our tickets to Magic Castle at Sea in Pulse Disco then. We don’t really know what to expect other than a 20-guest magic show. We’ll see.

The captain says they are refilling the swimming pool and heating the water. It has been open more than closed for this sailing actually. It has seen a surprising amount of use I think. It is probably about 57F outside, but cloudy and drizzling all day so far. Still the weather is improving for us! Around 3pm we spotted several whale blows. We still haven’t seen any whale parts other than those bowhead tops by Smoking Hills.

Back from Magic Castle at Sea. It was just a fairly standard magic show. I’m not sure why they keep the audience so small. It would have been as effective to me with twice as many in the audience, but then I really don’t like magic. I think it is too sneaky.

Dinner in the main dining room tonight. Nothing exciting on the menu for either of us. We plan to go to the popcorn movie tonight. Hopefully tomorrow will be as calm as today was. Tomorrow is our final sea day. It is also our 2^nd and final formal night. We have reservations at Prego. We still have to dress up.

 

Crossing the Labrador Sea

Saturday, September 10, 2016

We did hit very rough seas in the Labrador Sea overnight and though the wind’s died down, still rough seas. Clay feels its calmer, me not so much. We went to iLuminate’s The Tourist. It is a seldom used entertainment staff show. We enjoyed it. It was a clever use of equipment choreography using a very dark theater and lighted suits. It had to be very difficult for the performers in the rolling conditions in the theater. It helped us stay up late to look for the aurora borealis. The CD came onstage at the end of the show to tell about viewing it the night before. He said he’d show some passenger photos on today’s morning show and he did. The skies were not clear last night. In fact, there was actually fog! So, that was the end of aurora possibilities for us this trip we’re told. Badly done Crystal for not finding it worthwhile putting aurora notices in the e-alert program. There is always someone on the bridge watching and so there is a person working for Crystal who knows when the aurora is visible. I realize that the e-alert system may have been a tool of EYOS Expeditions and not Crystal but come on, work together and make it happen if it is important to guests. They all knew it was important to us as there was enough talk about it. Anyway, lost opportunity. I am grateful that we had seen them before at least.

We ate breakfast and lunch in the main dining room. I have stayed low in the ship and mostly in the cabin. We had a lecture today from the diver who was aboard Shackleton until we left it. He showed video and photos of what we didn’t see during the North West Passage. It was cool. He has at least one more presentation. I have made a lot of progress on the needlepoint and am more hopeful that I can get the kit Clay has requested. Dinner in main dining room tonight is not expected to be very good for me based on the menu. I’m not too hungry so that’s OK. Tomorrow we have 4pm Magic Castle at Sea tickets. Really hoping it gets a lot calmer as we near Newfoundland. During the noon announcement, the captain said he planned to use an inside Newfoundland passage to get to Maine. The nav map looks like he is headed further west than the initial track shown, so we are hopeful for a calmer and more scenic next couple of days.

Nuuk, Greenland

Friday, September 9, 2015

photos

Clay was up early this morning for his small boat excursion. Too early as it turns out. Originally it was set for 7am as that was our scheduled docking time. They changed it to 6:50am. We were not docked til after 7am and Clay figures they left at least 45 minutes after the 6:50am time. I don’t know why they would make the tour times earlier since all but one of our tours has left later than posted. The one was not on time early, it left early thus mixing late comers for that tour with early arrivals from our time. It seems to be a universal truth that the weakest part of every cruise line is Destination Services or the Tour Desk. The Panoramic Nuuk we booked was 1pm on the ticket. A few days ago they notified us it had been moved to 12:20pm. Reflections today which is supposed to be the most up-to-date information had it back at 1pm. I went down to the Hollywood Theater to find an excursion person and she told me it is 12:20pm. I didn’t take Reflections with me so she didn’t believe me. Clay got mad when I told him because the assumption is that we’ll show up at 12:20pm and they won’t depart til after 1pm because of Reflections. He took the page out of Reflections and went down again. When he showed her Reflections she got on her radio and told someone and they said they would broadcast voice mail to all ticketed participants to be in the Stardust at 12:20pm. We’ll see. They have a regularly running shuttle bus here and in hindsight we should have saved our money here and not bought any tours. Clay’s tour which was clearly advertised as whale-watching months ago has been verbally re-advertised as a fjord cruise ever since the tour people started talking about it. The first we heard that was as we understood it long past the cancelation with refund date. It was $250. We are both on Panoramic Nuuk at 12:20pm or 1pm, however it happens. It will end before the ticketed time most likely unlike the morning tours because all aboard occurs before the time on the ticket. Obviously, whenever it departs we will get a truncated tour. We should have just done some research and assumed there would be a shuttle to and from the pier and planned our own day with a map. It would have saved us $100s and been a better use of our time. Live and learn.

I slept in til 8am. I got up to take a shower and there was no hot water and no cold water. I used the cold water from the sink to wet my bed head down and went to the Concierge as per Reflections request to arrange our departure time in NY. He already had us scheduled for 8:10am and that was perfect. I told him about the water and he said his screen had just gotten a message that they were turning it back on and I should try again in 10 minutes. I had to go sit an hour in Bistro for the cabin to be serviced now anyway. Clay was expected back at 9am but it was closer to 10am when he got back. He said it was a nice boat. It was too hot inside so he sat outside with the daughter of the father/daughter boat team and randy older expedition guide. He said it was a nice sunny scenic morning, but no whales or other animals. He said a woman on with the rest of the 10 passengers said she had been up late last night as it was very lively for one night with the zodiac drivers from Shackelton aboard for the night. She was thus out after midnight and saw the aurora! We have to gain an hour tonight so we will plan to either stay up or to set an alarm and go out. We are below the Arctic Circle now, but still pretty far north at 64 degrees 10’ N so with clear skies and a moderate chance of northern lights maybe we’ll get lucky. We’ll see.

We went to the library about 9:30am, a half hour after opening to get our Magic Castle at Sea tickets. This was announced in Reflections that you each have to go get your own ticket. The show evidently only seats 20 people at a time. We never heard of this before booking Crystal but people rave about it so when in Rome. Evidently it is based on magiccastle.com, a private club in Hollywood, CA. We got tickets for the 4pm show on day 2, September 11. We have 3 sea days starting tomorrow, before 4 days in US ports followed by disembarkation on day 2 in NYC.

At 10am or so we went up to the Late breakfast in Tastes. It was our brunch. Since we both had a bite early and we’ll be on tour during lunch.

Before I go for now, I want to comment about our cabin 7042. We are fine with it really and have been comfortable but we wouldn’t pick it again. One it is too far forward for our comfort. This is one of the few ships we’ve been on that didn’t have a distinct aft vibration when at speed. The rougher the seas and the higher the ship’s speed the more stable it feels the farther back you go. Good to know, but too late for us. We wouldn’t book forward of the mid ship elevators again if we returned. The other thing is 7042 is backward facing. Every other cabin would be. This means that in bed, sitting at the desk or on the loveseat that you are facing aft not forward. We just don’t like that. We’ve gotten used to it, but it wouldn’t be our first choice. We didn’t have a lot of choice when we cleared the waitlist but we also didn’t have the information about cabin configuration. We have been happy enough with Crystal and our time on Serenity that if the right itinerary came up we’d return. That said, we are probably more suited as Oceania cruisers where it isn’t so formal. As I’ve said we haven’t been to a tea or a show so much of what Crystal offers is just wasted on us.

Today we are docked on the starboard side and there is a rather unattractive dock to view. Our port side has a bunker ship alongside so not too scenic here either. We are pretty far from central Nuuk out here, so best bet was just to take a shuttle into town and spend the whole day.

It is 2:40pm and we’re back. It was actually worse than expected. We got a ride for an hour around the suburbs which are all new and a drive by the airport. We were dropped outside the National Museum. Our guide was not Danish or a Greenlander. He never said where he was from only that people moving here were making Nuuk a faster growing city than Beijing or Shanghai. He liked it here so he’s staying. If you can say he was speaking English, it would have to be at least his 3^rd language and we only understood about 3 of 10 words he said. He was laughing a lot though so I guess he thought it was funny. We did get a late start but it was before 1 and after 12:30pm. He gave us a farewell and thanks for visiting Nuuk speech as he told us to get off the bus, tour ends here. Our Crystal rep on the bus rushed after him saying the tour ends at the ship. It was our understanding as well, also that we’d paid for admission to the National Museum. I asked the local guide about the bus and he agreed the bus would be here in one hour if we didn’t want to just take any shuttle bus. I asked him about the National Museum and he agreed it was right there and we could go in if we wanted. We walked in and were asked to pay the 30DKK admission. We had the conversation that we’d already paid for admission for the tour and the ticket guy didn’t respond but asked again if we were going to buy tickets. I said no, I’m not going to pay twice. We walked around the water front and through a souvenir shop and back to find a waiting shuttle bus so we left. The people on the bus sitting behind us said they had a good guide, but she hadn’t told them the museum was included either. Like us they went in and were asked to pay so they did. After they got inside they found another group who told them their guide had told them to enter and tell the ticket guy they were on the ship’s tour and they wouldn’t be charged. I don’t think the ticket guy got that memo. Anyway, $109pp and a wasted day. That on top of Clay’s non-whalewatching $249 tour. We really messed up here in Nuuk. To add insult the woman behind me on the bus was sick and coughing all over me!

We set sail on time at 4pm. The captain came over the loudspeakers to warn us of strong north winds and heavy seas when we leave the harbor. He said we need to average 18.5 knots to make Bar Harbor on schedule. We made private touring plans in Bar Harbor, now I guess we’ll regret that because neither of us can remember hitting speeds anywhere near 18 knots in the past nearly a month. So we don’t think we have a chance of making it on schedule. Oh, well. Sometime before 5pm we got another voicemail from the excursions desk. They were letting us know they were refunding 50% of our tour price this afternoon. Either Crystal has professional quality complainers onboard for these rapid group refunds or else their tour escorts must really let them know the same feedback we would give if we could bear it. It doesn’t make overpriced, excursions that don’t meet the description in the first place OK but I guess once it’s done you can’t give people back anything other than money, not time.

Not looking forward to dinner or the next 3 days with the rocking we’re doing already! The skies are still pretty clear so we’ll probably try to go out late and look for an aurora. Clay said the woman said deck 13, so I guess he knows where the dark spot is that we need to go to see it if possible. Fingers crossed. Last chance for an aurora according to Tim Soper last night.

We spent the afternoon watching a movie about 2 old men taking a driving trip around Iceland. Clay has a new item on his to do list. Iceland is next to Greenland. Greenland is the world’s largest island. It is considered part of Europe economically and part of North America geologically. I thought a lot of the land around Nuuk resembled the land in parts of the Canadian Maritimes, like around Peggy’s Cove. I’ll post this now if I can.

 photos

Sisimiut, Greenland

Thursday, September 8, 2016

photos

Clay slept from about 7:30pm last night to almost 7am this morning! I was rudely awakened at 6:50am or so by a monstrous lower leg muscle cramp! When it was over I fell back into bed and Clay proceeded to tell me how rough the sailing had been and he hadn’t slept all night. He sure did lay quietly for almost 12 hours then! It has been an exhausting trip somehow. The yoga teacher was talking about it. She thought it was the 6 lost hours of sleep over the past couple of weeks coupled with the low gray skies and though we’ve seen the sun, it hasn’t really been shining on us when we’ve been able to be out. We’ve just had a lot of clouds and precipitation and although we’ve been weeks above the Arctic Circle, no aurora borealis because of low clouds and precipitation. With all the lights on the ship, I don’t know if you could see the aurora anyway. That has really been the only disappointment and it is weather. You get what you get.

We were still moving slowly when I looked out. The TV’s nav map was broken. The bow cam showed it was 38F and the Shackleton was before us in a cove surrounded by a small town of colorful houses arrayed up the hillsides. It was not raining, but rain was forecast all morning with an expected 10F or so degree temperature rise. It was partly cloudy with some low clouds. The town of Sisimiut has a crooked triangular peak towering over it and in the misty clouds it looked like Whoville from Dr. Seuss. The clouds mostly cleared up over the course of the day and more blue sky and sunshine and the weird mood went away.

We had been advised during the briefing that we should check to tender schedule and try to avoid tour times since they take precedence. Clay went and checked and we were shooting for 10 to 11am or noon to 1pm. Last tender back is 5pm and we sail away at 6pm. We went to breakfast in the main dining room a little after 8am. I had banana buckwheat pancakes. That was new. I don’t think I like buckwheat. It looked like tiny buckshot in my pancakes. After we went up to Palm Court and used the big binoculars to scout the lay of the land and tenders and shuttle buses. Since it seemed to be clearing and not raining, we decided to head on ashore if we could get in the cabin. Peace was just finishing up so we got our teeth brushed, got suited up for the cold and possibly the rain and headed out before 10am. We took the mid-ship elevators directly down to deck 4 and walked right out onto a waiting tender with about 15 people who were already there. That seemed to be too good to be true and it was as they were just holding that tender for a soon to follow tour group! It was still a very short wait and they all got off together too. The tiny harbor was well sheltered. The tendering was fine. The going ashore from the tender was a little tricky. Tim Soper told us they had leased some kind of floating barge to act as a tender platform ashore and they had. It was fine but there was a very rotten, flimsy, bent looking wooden ramp/footbridge tied up between the barge and the shore that they had to limit 1 to 3 people at a time crossing. It still swayed and bent and flexed when I was alone on it! That slowed things down both loading and unloading, but it was fine. The shuttle bus was welcome because while it was a short walk between things, the uphill grade was steep. We walked back down. There was a shuttle bus waiting when we got ashore so we boarded. It didn’t leave until the next tender had unloaded. We just waited. The first stop was the Sisimiut Museum. We had originally booked a complimentary community visit here that was cancelled due to a lack of transportation. The tour department instead issued us free museum tickets. Since we were there, we got off. The 2^nd shuttle stop was a shopping area/Post Office. I had already dropped Mom’s post card at Serenity reception not realizing we’d be at a Post Office later. Oh, well. The first thing I had seen on the Sisimiut City Map they were handing out ashore was a store called Qiviut. This is the Inuit word for yarn made from musk ox undercoat. We have seen it everywhere since Nome but not at Pond Inlet. We knew it was expensive and hadn’t seen a lot of yarn for sale but high priced knitted goods. The briefing last night told us to look for it as it would be a good product to buy here since a lot of what they make here we can’t bring into the US. It turned out that the Qiviut store was on the grounds of the cluster of buildings that made up the museum. We heard the organist playing in the old church and saw a mask dance demonstration as well as a peat house and the oldest kit house from Denmark in Greenland (I think that is right.). There was a whole room dedicated to the polar bear that came to Sisimiut in 2014 and hung around the airport, when he headed for town he was killed. It was evidently a pretty big deal and his skull was there. We bought what we were told was enough Qiviut wool to knit two neck gaiters. The yarn was at 65 Euros for each but the knitted gaiters were 169 Euros, so I thought we were saving money. Clay considers it the most extravagant yarn purchase ever. Both. Clay also asked and got t-shirts put out on the porch there. He bought one.  I don’t know what part of the museum the building across was but they put out vanilla crème and chocolate crème filled doughnuts for us. The expedition guide for that corner asked us to help ourselves. Clay had a vanilla half (they were cut in half) and I passed. After we came by on the way out, I had a chocolate. As the guide was telling how and where to go now, she pointed out that the Senior Center across the street had just put out a sign inviting us to visit for music, arts & crafts and snacks. She felt bad that they were putting this on for us and no one was going over. Can’t have that. We carefully crossed the street. An older man sitting at a picnic table outside saw us cross and read the sign and he ran up and gestured us to the back door. It was a mud room/cloak room. We tried to take off our coats and shoes. He practically dragged me on through the next 2 rooms and past the kitchen into a room filled with elderly Greenlanders. One man was playing music. There were women sewing, cutting out fur pieces, beading and I don’t know what else. It looked like they were trying to sell what they were making. There was one woman who spoke some English and she struggled to tell us about what they were doing and to feed us Greenlandic cakes and coffee and tea. She couldn’t say no. We ate a buttered slice each. Then she pointed out the round slices and said they were made with eggs (ours hadn’t been) and her friend sitting at the table had made those round ones. We didn’t go back for seconds to their disappointment but it was too much! Clay drank a cup of tea and I a cup of strong coffee mostly because we didn’t get a bottle of water to take ashore and we were thirsty. We wanted to make a contribution to defray their costs and help their center. Clay was looking for something like a donation box and a woman wearing a seal skin came up to him and he handed her our bag of leftover DKK. She seemed surprised but took it. She probably didn’t even realize what he had handed her until we were gone. He had managed to leave his coat in the cloakroom and a cheer went up in the room we had left. We still aren’t sure if they were cheering because we had visited or because we had left! As we left another shuttle bus was coming to a stop across the street. We went over and got on for stop 2.

We didn’t find anything in the grocery store, sporting goods store or fish market except fish smells. We didn’t go in the Post Office but starting walking back down to the harbor. I found a unique long sleeve knit top with silhouettes all over it of ulu knives, ice bear heads, whale tails and what I was told is an old Greenlandic woman’s head. I thought it was extravagant. Clay said it was about $65. I broke my rule about new clothes and I’m wearing it. I like it. I found it in the very back corner of a store called Anuni. They had some unique locally themed fabric patterns in coats, pants, scarves, and tops as well as some women’s t-shirts. The problem was that the store was well back from the road even though it was probably as close to the 2^nd shuttle stop as the Post Office. It was on the other side of the road and we walked past it to the cemetery before turning around and seeing the side porch of it with a rack of shirts and a stack of shoe boxes. We walked back and even then, the stuff visitors would be looking for was buried back in the farthest corner from the door. I got lucky. We walked on back downhill carefully since it was a surprisingly busy street for a town of under 6000 and there were no sidewalks. We went in a bookstore/office & art supply store and one other store along the way selling Greenlandic jewelry. There were some nice gold or silver local design pendants but I didn’t need anything like that. We stopped at the boat house of the museum that we had missed earlier. We turned before the harbor and walked along the water way. We went in the Artists’ Workshop and the Spar store. We checked out the qajaq (kayak!) club. We walked back and got on the next tender back to Serenity. The sun was shining, there were blue skies visible and the Serenity was surrounded by hundreds of birds.

We went to lunch at Tastes to close them down at 2:30pm. As I type these notes up and consulting the local map we got ashore, it seems we missed a great photo opportunity across the bridge from the town to the airport. It shows a statue on a point of land and has a photo of a statue of a fisherman in front of a ship in the cove. It looks like it was taken on the other side of where the Shackleton is sitting. If we had noticed it before we’d have made a point of walking over there! Of course, the map also shows there is a statue at the point of land where we visited the qajaq club and we didn’t find a statue there, of course we weren’t looking for one so maybe it was there and we missed it.

We went to the last expedition recap & briefing at 5pm. That was a bit sad. The end really is in sight. We met a new member who has been diving and operating an ROV from Shackleton all during the trip! He is going to give a presentation sometime on the way to New York and that is exciting. At 5:30pm, they asked everyone to go to decks 12 & 13 forward to have a champagne toast to Shackleton’s departure. Shackleton had moved beside and nose to us as we sailed away and it stayed behind! It was rather anticlimactic.

Dinner was 6pm at the main dining room. We didn’t like anything on the menu and both ordered from the mainstays section. Clay had ribeye steak which he wasn’t wild about and I had a surprisingly moist chicken breast. We had another 40+ minute wait for our meal. Clay says he is going to ask not to be seated there anymore. It is too bad.

Tomorrow we are in Nuuk. (Say Nuke.) It is the capitol of Greenland. Today we got the message that our excursions’ departures had all been moved forward by about 15 minutes. It won’t matter that much and they probably won’t leave early anyway since every one has been late. Anyway. Clay has an early start and at the briefing they warned that this $250 excursion should be properly name fjord cruise and not whale watching cruise. Exactly what Clay has been saying as he worried about this since we boarded Serenity. But he never did look up the cancelation deadline, so he’s going now. At 12:20pm to 4pm or so, we have Panoramic Nuuk together.

We are sailing south along the West coast of Greenland again and being on the port side we have been in view of the coast. During the day today, we mostly had a view out to sea.

photos

Missed Ilulissat

Wednesday, September 7, 2016

photos

We were up at 6am today. Clay skipped his morning treadmill time. We were scheduled to sail into Disko Bay about 6am and it is supposed to be an impressive place to sail in and out of. Since we are in Silk Road without open windows at 6pm, our sail away time, we were eager to see it this morning. The low clouds/visibility were with us again and besides icebergs everywhere we really couldn’t see much. We went up to Lido for a quick breakfast. It is 37F and raining. The predicted high is 40F or 41F and it should continue raining all day. We are ticketed for a complimentary community visit at 8am and a Scenic Walk to Sermermiut at 12:30pm. We are contemplating staying ashore if the tour people tell us it is possible. We got back to the cabin to gear up for zodiacs and rain all day with a lot of walking in the cold and wet. We were watching the nav map and bow cam and it looked like we were making loops in the bay at about 4knots. We were not slowing down. According to Reflections, tours should have begun departing at 7:20am. Clearly that was not happening. Clay decided to go downstairs and see what was going on in Stardust, our meeting point. He showed our 2 sets of tickets to the woman manning the door and she told him that all tours except Icefjord Scenic Cruising are canceled. He came back and told me if I was quick that I could change and make the 8am combined yoga class. Or I could do laundry today. I was exasperated after getting ready quickly and early in all those layers so I just sat on the bed. He asked what I was doing and I told him I was waiting to hear from the captain. He told me there is a no public announcement policy. I agreed Crystal has a written no announcement policy, but Captain Birger doesn’t, he makes plenty of announcements. Sure enough at 8:04am he came on the speakers. He said that there was a pretty solid wall of ice blocking the entrance to the harbor. He said Shackleton had been monitoring the ice overnight here and thought it was building up due to an unexpected wind and advised against going in as we might not be able to get out. He said he had still searched the ice wall himself for the past hour trying to find a crack that could be used to tender us in and out but hadn’t found one and also had to consider that he had to get us back out by day’s end. He said they had canceled all excursions except Icefjord Scenic Cruising as they had been able to arrange for the local boats that were scheduled to do it to come out and pick up at our tender dock instead of in town at the dock. He said they had arranged a ferry boat or something like it locally to come out and pick up all the overnight and overland excursion guests. He said once he found the right spot that he would put the ship into dynamic positioning mode and we would spend the day here. They spent the next 2 or more hours precariously trying to get passengers over into various local boats with and without success. They dropped one of our lifeboats/tenders and although there was still a lot of bouncing they matched up at a level and they then took passengers in our tender to a ferry. I watched a bit of terrifying passenger transfer from tender to ferry as the boats bobbed up and down, not in sync! I followed that ferry until it disappeared at the harbor ice wall. The captain said he had us to within 7 miles of either the ice wall or the dock in harbor, I’m not sure which. We are at 69 degrees 12.81N and 51 degrees 27.96’ W if that helps. During that 2 + hours, they got the Cineflex up and running, put on a slate of 3 lectures and added art, knitting, needlepoint and bridge. They delivered an updated daily schedule to the cabins. At about 11am, another ship wide announcement was made that they could not transfer passengers to local boats and had decided to run all the Shackelton’s zodiacs from the ship instead for scenic ice cruising. I can see them now. They are not going to the icefjord. They are cruising here in Disko Bay up to the ice wall across the harbor. That is not like seeing the Jakobshavn Glacier calving. It is one of the most active tidewater glaciers in the world, so this is hardly a fair substitute for those who paid to cruise the icefjord. I am disappointed but they are bobbing around in the rain on zodiacs, paying extra to see what I can see from here. Hopefully, they explained to each ticketed tour participant what they were substituting and gave them an option of being refunded instead. I know the local fleet must be really unhappy. They had enough boats out here around the ship this morning that you’d have thought they emptied the harbor to answer the call to come out and shuttle Serenity’s passenger back and forth to the icefjord. I assume that they’ll have to be paid something for coming out whether they get paid in full when it didn’t work out or not. Clay went to use the treadmill and I have done the laundry for what should be the last time this trip.

We went up to Lido for lunch as it offers the best views and best selection. You can order from Trident or Tastes to eat in Lido which increases the selection. So from up there and Palm Court and the detailed navigation map outside Palm Court, we have a better idea what we’re seeing. It does look as if we are 7 miles offshore not from the ice wall. The other thing is that we might be well outside the entrance to Ilulissat harbor and closer to the point of land that separates it from the icefjord of Jakobshavn Glacier. The ice wall appears on the map and it extends across both bodies of water. That said the zodiacs aren’t rounding that corner. They are loaded chockfull and run out to the wall, around and among the bergs and down or up the wall a mile or less and then back to the ship. Port side drew the view again today as we are facing the view and the tender action. Starboard side today got open water and a random distant iceberg. It was 37F this morning and predicted to warm to 40 or 41, but it has dropped to 34F by 1pm. It is still raining, the cloud cover is heavier and lower and the chop on the bay has increased as the day has gone on. It is 1:15pm and the captain has just come on loudspeakers again and announced that due to deteriorating weather and sea conditions he has canceled all further zodiac activity. He said once the zodiacs out get unloaded and back on Shackleton that we will depart early for our next port and hope for better luck next time. The captain said that the port side should have a view of the mouth of the icefjord for the next 15 to 20 minutes as we sail south down the coast.

Well, we have 2 more ports in Greenland. Hopefully we’ll get to set foot on land somewhere in Greenland.  Whale blows were spotted just beyond the icefjord mouth. We were on our way south by 3pm. Thankfully although Disko Bay was unexpectedly rough, when we arrived back out in Davis Strait it was calm. We had the 5pm recap & briefing where they described all I have written up here with some additional details and explanations. We heard some more about Sissimiut and learned that we will depart from the Shackleton there. The expedition portion of our North West Passage cruise will end in Sissimiut. We are told we can expect to go ashore there even though the local tour operator has canceled a hike due to snow that accumulated there recently. Fingers crossed.

Dinner is shortly in Silk Road and hopefully it will be as good as last time. It was. Bed gift when we got back to the cabin was ironic. A postcard of the colorful houses of Greenland, which we haven't seen. On the plus side, it had 15DKK postage attached, so I'll mail it to Mom. It made me wonder again though about Crystal not printing and delivering milestone certificates. Like crossing the Arctic Circle on a ship makes you a Blue Nose. What about completing the North West Passage? I guess it is not exclusive enough. Crystal's motto is "All exclusive" and that just rankles. Forgive me but it is written on my keycard right by my name and photo like it has something to do with me or that I approve of the concept even. Anyway. Hoping for a better day tomorrow and first visit to Greenland, a new country for us.

photos

Cruising to Greenland

Tuesday, September 6, 2016

photos

We have been rocking and lurching and bouncing since yesterday afternoon. We lost an hour last night. Before Clay came back in this morning, I was already awake. I was woken by Crystal’s binoculars falling off the shelf by the desk near the foot of the bed being tossed off onto my feet and then the floor. It is 37F outside and mostly cloudy all day with little change from start to finish. We’ve seen tons of icebergs. I saw a fishing boat nearby during chair yoga. I stayed low in the ship all day. So 3 meals in the main dining room and I skipped gentle yoga in Palm Court and went to Chair Yoga in Stardust. Maria came in to teach from upstairs and said they had seen a gigantic sperm whale surface and dive with its huge tail straight up in the air on the big TV screens behind her. I’ve spent hours staring at those screens without seeing anything remarkable! The day I skip, I miss something new! So, I have made a lot of progress on the needlepoint. Tomorrow starts a 3-day stretch in Greenland. Should be a busy time! Hopefully all our sailing will be after dinner for next 2 nights anyway!

There was nothing on the dinner menu that either of us wanted tonight. Clay was agonizing over whether to try the roast suckling pig or the lamb curry. He really didn’t want to have the curry, it was causing him worry. Ha! I didn’t want to order the turf without the surf but was considering it. In the end, we were seated with a new to us waiter, Vinod. Who was our best server yet. Clay ordered the lamb curry and loved it. He ordered the yuzu trifle for dessert and loved it. I decided to ask if they could serve the pasta without crabmeat in the sauce and they could and I really liked it. So, we ended the miserable day on a high note even though the seas have not calmed and we’ve heard it should rain all day tomorrow! They won’t find out before we arrive at the harbor off Disko Bay what ice conditions are and if we can tender or have to zodiac tender. I guess at this point with the rain, it won’t matter since we’ll have on waterproof pants anyway.

photos

Cruising Sam Ford Fjord on Baffin Island

Monday, September 5, 2016

Photos

We had a short night last night with the time change and we lose another hour tonight. So, while Clay was still in the gym at 5am and he didn’t come back until almost 7:30am, I was still sleeping. It had been a little rough for the past few hours cruising south in Baffin Bay along the coast on the starboard side. It was rough enough that I was having some trouble getting up and around and changed my answer to Clay’s question yesterday of whether I still felt I could do next spring’s waitlisted cruise around Australia with Oceania. It may not be up to us to decide as we haven’t been offered a cabin yet. Anyway, around 8am we started turning into Sam Ford Fjord and it got a lot calmer. As we reached Walker Arm around 10am, we found Le Boreal ahead of us! Le Boreal is the ship we took to Antarctica, so we’re fond of her. She was disabled and nearly sunk off the Falklands a year or so ago. So while we knew she did NWP cruises, we weren’t aware that she had been brought back into service and it was a happy surprise to see her speeding along our fjord. The captain announced where we were and what we were doing around 9:30am. He said this was a particularly scenic fjord and had clifftops at over a mile high. You could realize the enormous scale of things when we saw Le Boreal. Prior to that size check, it had seemed we were in pretty tight quarters. Of course, we are a big ship and it actually was tight quarters for us as many places you couldn’t see water beyond the ship before seeing a rock or scree face. There were glaciers, tidewater glaciers, hanging glaciers, etc. The cloud deck was low and it was raining hard all morning. It was about 35-37F all morning, so cold but nowhere near freezing. It was all clouds and rain. As we reached the furthest point we could travel in, there were some brief breaks in the clouds and a little light and blue patches of sky visible as we did a 180 degree turn, though we both swore he spun in a complete circle once before coming back around and heading back out the way we came in. The clouds were even lower and heavier on the way back out. The captain came on at noon and apologized that the weather hadn’t cooperated, but that as we went back by the next bend to watch the starboard side for a lone polar bear that he had made eye contact with on the way in. Now that is the side that Clay and I and mostly the Cineflex had been watching on the way in and we hadn’t seen a polar bear. In any event, we checked the now starboard side. Cineflex focused for a long time on a little whitish blob on the hillside and we were told later that was the polar bear. I guess that emphasizes the sheer size of things again. The captain said he thought we were leaving polar bear areas and that would be our last one. I guess Greenland has no polar bears? I guess Baffin Island has no musk ox? They have been seen most every day since Nome but we found no Qivuit for sale in Pond Inlet and no musk ox have been spotted. They seemed ubiquitous before but the people of Pond Inlet seemed more focused on seals and narwhal, neither of which we saw there. Evidently the people who went out on zodiac or fast boat among other excursions yesterday saw animals in addition to birds as the wildlife checklist had them listed for yesterday.

After breakfast and yoga this morning, there was a sale of RRS Shackleton souvenirs in Crystal Plaza. It was well attended and possibly better stocked than the Inaugural NWP Cruise souvenir sale. Clay got a $32 t-shirt. I decided to pass. They had a lot of jackets, polo shirts and I don’t know what a long sleeved, cotton-collared polo-type shirt is called, but they had those and fleece hoodies. There were no prices on anything, but as I was handling a long sleeved shirt I heard a price come back to a woman near me and it was over $100. I don’t know what she had asked about, but I figured I didn’t need anything priceless on that table and gave it up. There were long lines to pay again.

They are having a special Mozart tea in Palm Court this afternoon. We haven’t attended any tea on Serenity so have no idea if the daily event is special or how this differs. We had tacos and goulash at the Lido for lunch. There is for me a really disgusting sounding menu in the dining room tonight. We hope to try to get our remaining entitled reservations made between 5 and 6pm today and we’ll hope one can be tonight.

There is no Internet today. I will assume it is because of the close high mountains and that as we cross Davis Strait this afternoon and tonight and all day tomorrow that it will return. We are about 450nm from Illulissat, Greenland. We have a complimentary community visit scheduled there for 8am and a paid excursion at 12:30pm for a Scenic Walk to Sermermiut for $178 for both. We have watched on TV the destination/excursion talk on Illulissat and they don’t know whether we will dock or anchor and tender. The general feeling is that it won’t matter for excursions somehow. They have been requiring a ticket of some kind to get a ride off this ship since Nome. I don’t see how that won’t change if we are not docked. Anyway, I guess they think whether we dock and walk off, or tender to a dock that both docks will be in general proximity. I guess from that perspective maybe it won’t matter. We’ll see. I’d hate to have to tender twice!

The ride was rough once we got back into open water this afternoon. So, after lunch at Lido we spent the afternoon in the cabin. We watched a string of icebergs for a while with a random sailboat thrown in! They were having a rough day! Clay went to the library and checked out “Aloha” which he didn’t remember seeing in the theater. He managed to watch it all today. I am still working hard on the cross stitch to try to get the kit Clay picked out before it is too late. I am down to almost only white left to do, but it is a big section. We’ll see. Clay went out again after 5pm to try to get the rest of our specialty restaurant reservations. Success! 4 reservations made at 6pm at Prego and Silk Road. I don’t know why they had to make it so hard and just couldn’t do this one of the first 2 times we asked.

There was nothing we really wanted from the dinner menu tonight but Clay couldn’t get us in another restaurant tonight so off we went. I had the braised oxtail and Clay had perch. Both were good, probably better than we expected. Also service returned to norm tonight after our 2-night absence. We can only hope it holds. I jokingly told the waiter who wondered where we’d been that we had better service in one restaurant and worse service in the other. Both waiters wondered what I had to say about them, but I wouldn’t say. The senior waiter decided he has 12 days to become my number one waiter. Hopefully he will actually earn that spot! We didn’t break it to him that we had 4 nights of reservations elsewhere!

Clay got Internet after dinner when it has been unavailable all day so I’ll try to get this posted now. We’ve already turned the clocks forward an hour. We should now be on Greenland time.

photos