Little Bob hits the road

Little Bob hits the road
Little Bob hits the road

Tuesday, February 9, 2016

Varadero, Cuba

Friday, January 15, 2016

Sunrise
Clay's sea otters
We could not get anything but instant decaf coffee to make with the kettle in the rooms, so Mom & Judy decided to go to breakfast earlier. We met them shortly after they had gotten a first cup of coffee. We had planned for 7:30am and that was about when we started eating. I don’t think any of us actually slept in since we all saw the pink sunrise. We walked around after breakfast and Mom wanted to go photograph the beach but it was pouring rain when we got outside so we just looked from a covered area and went back inside to wait for our 9:45am departure.
 
Not otters!
Melia Varadero atrium
Melia Varadero pool

Melia Varadero

Our afternoon beach sitting spot at Melia Varadero
Our bus in front of Melia Varadero
We drove through some interesting countryside and through Coliseo where we saw a bridge to and from nowhere over train tracks. We skirted around Cardenas. It is famous as the home of the Cuban boy Elian Gonzalez who was brought to the USA by his mother without his father’s permission and eventually returned to Cuba by the US government by force and he became Fidel Castro’s poster boy. There were a crazy amount of horse drawn carriages and bicycles and hitchhikers on our route. They even had street signs with graphics to warn of slow moving horse drawn carts and carriages. I never did hear any rational explanation for the number of horse drawn vehicles around the Bay of Cardenas. The land between here and Havana has hardly any cultivation or crops. There is some right around here but between here and there where the land was hillier I did not see any cultivated land. I did see miles and miles of pumping stations for oil or natural gas or something all along the coast on both sides of the road. I would guess about 1 in 5 was actually pumping. Clay said it was because of the low price of oil. Grency told us Cuba gets most of their fuel from Venezuela and it is expensive. Maybe over $4/gallon. She said their domestic production is low quality with a high sulfur content and so used only for electricity production.

Our people-to-people visit today was at the home/studio/shop of a fabric tie-dye artist/fashion designer named Mariela. She had some beautiful and interesting fabrics inspired by Frieda Kahlo. She covered a square of fabric with leaves, beads, and other things and the image of Kahlo was already basted on it with heavy thread. She used a bunch of bottles of different colored dyes and a paint brush to decorate the fabric square. She finished by sprinkling dry rice over it as it was left to dry in the sun. It was interesting. She is preparing for a fashion show in NYC later this month that she was invited to. It will be her first visit to the USA.

Coliseo's bridge to and from nowhere
Another view of Coliseo's bridge
Cuba and old cars
Cuba and horse carts

Pottery kiln
We drove to lunch at Coincidencia Farm after that. We arrived about 11:45am again for an early lunch. We walked around the house and past the pottery kiln to a thatched roof shelter where our single huge table was set and a family-style lunch was waiting. It was good. Salad, stewed bok choy, some stewed white stringy stuff, Moors and Christians (what Cubans call the dish of mixed black beans and rice) and stewed pork with plaintain chips. For dessert they served small sweet bananas with a puree of papaya and honey.  They also served bottled water and mango juice and some extraordinary coffee after.
Debbie & Margie with weird fruit

Family style lunch
Clay's lunch
3 mother-daughter groups
An injured hawk oversaw our lunch

Potter at work on wheel
After lunch they took us on a tour and demo of their pottery/ceramics workshop followed by a crowded stop at their stop. There was a large group there already having lunch when we arrived and they toured first and the shop was pretty picked over by the time we could get in it. Oh well. Good for them.

A parade of old cars at a big cemetery



We got back to Melia Veradera by about 2pm. We came back to the rooms to use the restrooms and drop bags off. Then we all walked down the street to the small shopping mall next door. There was lots to buy and we were all spending off our CUCs. I think everyone has purchased everything they wanted and we still have more opportunities after security at the Jose Marti Airport tomorrow afternoon.

Finally activity of the day before the rain blew back in was sitting outside overlooking the beach for a restful little while. It was beautiful while it lasted. We availed ourselves of the all inclusive bars around the pool and enjoyed our final afternoon fully. We tried Trish's recommended favorite Cuban drink, a Cubata. This is like a Cuba Libre which is a rum and cola with lime. Cubata is made with 7 year old rum instead of younger and lighter stuff. It was powerful. When I saw how much rum he put in the cups, I asked the barkeep for an extra cola on the side.  Mom enjoyed some more of Cuba's fresh squeezed juices. Somehow, I don't think anyone got any photos of our beverages! I suspect cameras got left in the room when we returned from our bus outing.
 
Today was our last full day in Cuba. We had a bit of a rocky start on this trip, but all in all I think it has been a pretty good trip. Cuba is changing rapidly and hopefully for the better for all so I am glad that we came and came now.

Our tour group has dinner reservations at the steak house here at Melia Veradero tonight. Tomorrow we will leave mid-morning and go straight to Jose Marti Airport at Havana by noon or so to check in for our 4pm or so charted AA flight back to Miami. We will take the Crowne Plaza shuttle back to the car from MIA. We should be back at Mom’s house in Bonita Springs by 8pm or so. I am sure it will feel like another long travel day by the time we go to bed tomorrow but it will be good to get back. It feel even better when we get back to our own home. I am looking forward to being home for a while and we don’t have any future trips planned. But, stay tuned!

Dinner was a little disappointing. First, it is a small restaurant and they do not allow large groups to take over so we were seated at 2-4 tops and 3-6 tops so it wasn’t really a group dinner. That part was fine. We sat at our own 4-top quite happily. I didn’t like dinner and it wasn’t clear anyone else loved it. Three of us started with the stir-fry vegetables. They were served cold. I didn’t like that. Soup course was universally disliked. Clay and I had beef consommé with sherry. Clay’s was served steaming hot and mine was lukewarm. Go figure. It just tasted of salt and grease. Mom and Judy had cream of turkey with green vegetables. All they tasted was salt. The main courses were served under silver domes all lifted at once with a flourish. Really. Judy had chicken as a main course and she said it was fine. Clay had beef entrecote and it was nearly raw and mostly tough. Mom and I had beef tenderloin. Mom had hers with the menu listed mushroom sauce and medium. Hers was too tough to chew. I ordered mine butterflied and well-done and without sauce. I got peppercorn sauce on the side. Mine was not as tough as Mom’s and I gave her part of mine and we both had plenty since it was not that tasty and hard to cut. Everyone had pureed potatoes. I didn’t like them because they were cold, maybe warm, but not hot. Judy thought they were the best thing on the plate. Clay tasted his and his were cold too. It’s a mystery. Mom and Judy had lemon meringue pie and liked it. Clay had strawberry ice cream. I had cheesecake with strawberry sauce. There wasn’t really sauce, it was decorative. Everyone got a scoop of vanilla ice cream on their plates. I don’t know why. I didn’t like it. The cheesecake was served warm! WTH? We were the first table to leave the restaurant.

Tomorrow we’ll go to breakfast at 7:45am. Bags out at 9:45am. Bus leaves at 10:15am.  Grency said with a bathroom stop that it would be a 3 hour drive to the airport. Check-in begins at 12:40pm. The AA charter flight leaves at 3:40pm. It is scheduled to arrive at MIA at 4:45pm.

Monday, February 8, 2016

Leaving Havana for Varadero

Thursday, January 14, 2016

Alamar
So things went pretty well as outlined at the end of yesterday’s entry. We had breakfast at 7am. A minute or 2 after 8am we had a knock at the door for our bags which we kept and brought down ourselves. We put them into the baggage corral with the other Friendly Planet bags. I may have forgotten to say that we all got matching blue luggage straps in Miami. The porters started carrying them down the front entry stairs to the bus at 8:45am where we stood in the rain and watched and waited for Dagmar to load them under the bus. We left for our 2-night stay at Varadero at 9am.
 
We drove through Alamar on the way. This is a densely populated community built in Soviet-style and it looked bleak and familiar to us. Somehow mildew and mold didn’t seem to grow rampant on the unpainted concrete though.
Juicing sugar cane and pineapple
 
Our first stop was at 10am at Finca Vigia, Hemingway’s Cuba home. It was an impressive compound with 2 houses on it. Grency told us that he bought the property from a French industrial around 1938-39 for $18,500 or so. That sounded high but it was a big place. Tourists are not allowed inside. In inclement weather they don’t even open the doors and windows for you to look in. You have to walk around the outside and press up to the glass to see inside. It was still cool. The tower room that was meant to be his writing studio was open air and for a tip you could hand your camera over the rope and the docent inside would take photos of Hemingway’s typewriter and other stuff he left in place the last time he left. It has been preserved as he left it since his death. His boat, Pilar, was on display beyond the empty swimming pool. It looked great. We had an hour there and it was just about the right amount of time. Since it was raining and we were the first bus to arrive, it was probably not too crowded and that made it OK. It was still pretty crowded. 
 



 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
This is the drink they were juicing in the first photo from Finca Vigia.
Clay bought one so we could try it. Too rummy for me!
Peeling sugar cane.
Broom leaning against guard hut.
 
Fort at Cojimar.
Clay at the fort. It was closed.
Our next stop was in Cojimar. This was a small fishing village that inspired Hemingway to write the Old Man and the Sea. There was some story about it being where the largest shark ever caught in the world was brought ashore. I forgot that we were also told at some point yesterday that Cuba is home to the world’s smallest hummingbird. Mom & Judy thought they saw one outside Hemingway’s. They said it was about the size of a dragonfly!
 
In Cojimar we had about 15 minutes in the rain to take photos of the harbor and the tiny old fort and a bronze bust of Hemingway.
 
Virgin honey daiquiri
fish balls
Then we drove a short distance to Bodega Las Brisas for lunch. It was another paladar. It was good but not as good as yesterday, I thought. It was a seafood specialty place though so I may be of a differing opinion. It was a small place with 2 busloads at lunch. They served fish appetizers, fish gumbo, followed by a choice of grilled mahi mahi, paella, pork fajitas or chicken fajitas (no tortillas!) and rice pudding for dessert. The welcome cocktail was like a daiquiri but made with honey instead of sugar. I had one without rum and it was good. I drank it! I asked for a cola as my beverage expecting the usual TuKola but she asked me if I wanted diet or regular. I got diet and liked it even better than regular. Today was our earliest lunch yet at 11:45am.
fish gumbo
Diet Tukola
Grilled mahi mahi
Fajitas
Rice pudding
 
 
 
View from Cuba's tallest bridge.
Matanzas street scene
 
Our last stop at about 3:15pm was Traditions Alleyway in the town of Matanzas. It was a community effort to preserve and celebrate Santeria and Afro-Cuban heritage. It was interesting, colorful and entertaining. Some young performers sang, drummed and danced for us. Then of course they pulled people out to dance. One guy had 2 wooden weapons he danced with and he tried to give them to Clay and Clay pointed him to me. Before I could stop it, I had a wooden weapon in either hand and was out dancing with him. The good news was that every dancer had some tourist out there. The other good news is that when Clay switched to video his battery died!
 


 
 
Our seaview corner room!
Look at all that bed!
We arrived at the Melia Varadero sometime after 4pm. We got our green bracelets attached and our keycards and found our rooms. Mom & Judy got the small room this time. Clay and I were very happy to see our large corner balcony room with beach views. Two nights here won’t make up for 3 nights in a dark and dirty closet at the Nacional but it helps. The Melia is an all-inclusive resort. If the weather weren’t so chilly, windy and rainy it would be a lovely resort at which to spend 2 nights. We were free to have dinner at either the cafeteria or buffet tonight as we wished. Tomorrow we are supposed to have a group formal farewell dinner at Fuerteventura according to the itinerary. That is one of the smaller, reservations only restaurants at the resort. Tonight’s buffet and service were far superior to the Nacional’s. Unfortunately, one after another at a table nearby there was a man who had too much alcohol today and who behaved very badly before leaving. We left before the last one left. I guess it is always something. There was a live show tonight but it started at 9:45pm today instead of 9pm. We didn’t think we could stay up past 9 for a show much less 9:45pm start time. So after dinner we went to our rooms.
Our shit bucket
Our ocean view corner balcony!
Our wonderful view!

We plan to meet for breakfast at 8am tomorrow. Bus departs at 9:45am. We were told that we’ll visit a fashion designer. Then have lunch at an organic farm/pottery studio. After lunch until dinner we are free at the resort. There is a shopping center next door. Otherwise maybe we’ll nap!

Good night.